The grande dame of Japanese restaurants gets a makeover.

WHEN I think of Japanese cuisine, I can’t help but marvel about the ingeniousness and wisdom of sushi – how it is no longer than a finger and yet a meal unto itself. The Japanese know the value of time, and the idea that you can have a quick meal and survive on just sushi for the day makes every other dish seem extravagant and superfluous. And, of course, sushi is known to be low in fat and a very nutritious food.

That said, Japanese food is more than just sushi and sashimi − its cornerstone, after all, is not its serving size but its freshness. Nowhere is this more evident in Singapore than at Inagiku, arguably the oldest Japanese restaurant in the island, where chef Yoshiyuki Nobukawa uses premium, high-quality ingredients, air-flown from Japan. And he serves more than sushi.

	Inagiku recently underwent a month-long renovation, transforming itself into a sleek and elegant hangout by using dark and monochromatic interiors. As if to echo its motto of serving only the freshest food, the walls are adorned with eco-inspired works by renowned artist Michael Ong.
Foie gras that puts a smile on your face.

This upscale restaurant is one of the grand dames in Singapore. According to the Frommer’s Guide, it’s a branch of the original Inagiku that opened in Japan in 1866 and developed a style of food preparation where food is prepared in front of guests in private Tatami rooms.

“Many Japanese expatriates assert that this modern establishment serves Singapore's freshest sashimi platters. Also enticing is the light, crisp tempura; the teppanyaki comes with a heavenly prawn dipping sauce and savory garlic fried rice. À la carte prices can add up very quickly here, so opt for a prix-fixe menu if you're on a tight budget,” it says.

Inagiku’s signature dishes have remained despite the restaurant’s new look, though chef Nobukawa is said to have updated and given them a twist.

When we were there one lunch, we feasted on his splendid and heavenly appetizers: the Foie Gras-Fruit Lemon-Kama, which tasted so rich that the moment we closed our eyes to savor its creamy texture, we were flooded with pleasant thoughts and found ourselves smiling. The grilled oyster with egg yolk sauce, served in a soup spoon, was like a gentle poke that awakened our palate to more exotic flavors ahead. As the oyster slinkingly inched its way down our throat, we imagined cold soba noodles and light sake and the positive thrill of being able to identify the different textures of food.

Hotpot, Japanese style. Cook wagyu steak on top of your own stone grill.

The surprise − or should I say the delight − of the day was the pleasant-smelling muskmelon flown straight from Shizuoka. Its smooth skin, musky smell, and soft flesh is so sensual that it’s as if the kitchen had asked what you wanted for your last meal and decided they’d give you muskmelon instead. As we found out later, the Shizuoka muskmelon is one of the most expensive items in Inagiku’s menu at $30 per slice. It is so precious and the staff handle it like it were the queen of all fruits. Much like how Inagiku is the grand doyenne of Singapore restaurants.

Inagiku is located at Level 3, Fairmont Singapore (you enter through Raffles Plaza mall). For reservations, all 6431 6156 or email dining.singapore@fairmont.com